A New Generation of Pakistani-American Restaurants Is Forging Its Own Path

By Maryam Jillani

“In the midst of Islamophobia in Texas, food was a good stepping stone to introduce Pakistani food to people,” Shafi says. If Shafi’s entry point to Pakistani flavors was Texas-style barbecue, and Chaudhry’s Nashville-style hot chicken, at Nishaan in the East Village, it is the New York City bodega staple, the chopped cheese sandwich. Since then, he has become one of the most energetic and visible champions of Pakistani cuisine in New York City, which has emerged as a hub for the new generation of Pakistani restaurants redefining the cuisine in America.